ScrapBusters: Triangle Pencil Case

The pencil. Do you think it has nightmares
about being chased by digital keyboards? There are so many
convenient electronic ways to jot a quick note, send a message,
or write down your innermost thoughts. But I still love my
pencils. And, recent
have shown the act of handwriting, instead
of typing on a keyboard, is actually better for your brain. It
activates a unique neural circuit, which makes learning easier.
So, if you needed an excuse other than “extreme cuteness” to
give our Triangle Pencil Case a try, you can now put it down as
a brain booster. 

For this ScrapBusters project, we suggest
working with a canvas or home décor weight fabric. This works
great with the fusible fleece to create the triangle shape with
its wide boxed bottom corners. You could certainly try other
fabric options, but might need to experiment with additional
interfacing to insure the best results.

Look for a bright print in a smaller motif you
can center on each of the panels so your cases looks great from
all sides within the triangle format. You can then choose as
matching zipper as we did with our red case or go for a
coordinating accent color, as we did with the other two
samples. Little projects are fun fussy cutting

The zippered top opens to a full 9” – a
perfect size for your favorite pencils and pens. We used a
standard polyester zipper, which allowed us a broad range of
fun colors to mix and match with our chosen fabrics. Of course,
as much as we love those pencils, this zippered pouch would be
perfect for all kinds of little necessities.

We added a pair of matching poms as the zipper
pull on each of the pouches as a fun little bouncy accent. Look
for for either loose poms in your stash or cut from them a
scrap of trim. We did both, attaching the poms with a double
strand of Aurifil

A metal
on the front of each pouch is the finishing
touch. These are from the new Dritz® collection of leather and
metal labels. We stitched them in place with the same AuriFloss
used to attach the poms so it it adds yet another pop of

There is a free pattern included below. It is
a simple 10” x 5½” rectangle so you can certainly choose to cut
all the pieces without it, however, the pattern is helpful for
precise fussing cutting as well as positioning the label and
marking for the base line.

Our Triangle Case finishes at approximately 9”
wide x 3” high x 3” deep.

NOTE: Ingredients shown are for ONE

  • Scrap or ¼ yard of 44″+ wide canvas or décor
    weight fabric for the exterior panels
  • Scrap or ¼ yard of 44″+ wide quilting weight
    cotton or similar for the lining
  • Scrap or ¼ yard of 45”+ fusible fleece;
    we used Pellon Thermolam
    Plus Fusible Fleece
  • TWO small poms – optional; as mentioned
    above, you can use loose poms or cut individual poms from a
    strip of trim
  • ONE Dritz® Label or similar – optional;
    we used the new Dritz Metal
    in a matte nickel finish
  • ONE 9” zipper
  • All-purpose thread to match fabric
  • Embroidery floss in a color to match the
    zipper and poms – optional; to attach the poms and sew the
    label in place
  • See-through ruler
  • Fabric pen or pencil
  • Seam gauge
  • Seam ripper
  • Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Straight pins

Pattern Downloads

  • Download and print the Triangle Pencil Case

    IMPORTANT: This pattern
    download consists of ONE 8½” x 11″ sheets. You must print the
    PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a
    guide rule on the sheets to confirm your printout it to
  • Cut out the pattern along the solid
    NOTE: As mentioned above, the cuts are all simple 10” wide
    x 5½” high rectangles so you can choose to cut without the
    pattern if you’d like.
  1. Using the pattern, cut TWO from the exterior
    fabric, the lining fabric, and the fusible fleece.
  2. Clip to mark the base line at either outer
    edge on all pieces.
  3. For the best look, fussy
    both exterior panels to center your motif
    front and back.

Prepare exterior and attach label

  1. Find the two exterior panels and the two
    fusible fleece panels. Place a fleece panel against the wrong
    side of each exterior panel. All four sides of both layers
    should be flush. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse
    the fleece in place.
  2. Using the guidelines on the pattern, mark
    the position for the label. If you are not using a pattern,
    measure 1½” down from the top raw edge an 2” in from the
    right raw edge to find the placement point for the upper
    right corner of the label.
  3. Hand stitch the label in place with a heavy
  4. Our case is designed to have 3” corners. To
    create this width, cut 1½” squares from each bottom corner of
    each piece: the two exterior panels (with the fleece fused in
    place) and the two lining panels.
  5. With both the exterior and lining layers, we
    stacked the layers and cut both at once for the best match
    corner to corner.

    If you are brand new to this technique, check out
    our full step-by-step tutorial
    on two
    different (and easy) ways to make a box corner.

Insert the zipper between the exterior and the

  1. Place the front panel right side up on your
    work surface.
  2. Center the zipper in place across the top
    raw edge if the panel. The zipper and the panel are right
    sides together and the zipper pull is situated to the right.
    Pin in place across the top through all the
  3. Open the zipper half way.
  4. Find one lining piece. Place the lining
    panel right side down on top of the front panel, sandwiching
    the open zipper between the layers. Pin in place – again just
    across the top but through all the layers.

  5. Stitch across the top through all three
    layers, using a ¼” seam. We used our Janome Quarter Inch Seam
    ; you could also use a Zipper

    All with all zipper insertions, when you feel you are
    approaching the zipper pull, stop with your needle in the
    down position. Raise the presser foot and twist the layers
    slightly so you can access the pull to move it out of the way
    of the presser foot. Once clear, drop the presser foot,
    re-position the layers, and finish the seam.
  6. Fold the lining back so the front panel and
    the lining are now wrong sides together and the remaining
    free side of the zipper tape is sticking up. Press.
  7. Find the back exterior panel and the
    remaining lining panel. Make a second sandwich similar to the
    first one. Place the back exterior panel right sides together
    with the front exterior panel, aligning its top raw edge with
    the free edge of the zipper tape. Lightly pin in
  8. Place the remaining lining panel right sides
    together with the in-place lining panel. The top raw edge of
    the lining panel should also be flush with the free edge of
    the zipper tape. As with the first sandwich, you have
    sandwiched the remaining free edge of the zipper between the
    back exterior panel and the remaining lining panel. The two
    exterior panels are right sides together and the two lining
    panels are right sides together. Pin in place through all
    three layers.
  9. Stitch in play through all the layers, again
    using a ¼” seam and moving the zipper pull as described
  10. As you did above, fold the exterior back and
    lining wrong sides together and press.
  11. Open up the entire unit so it lays flat. The
    exterior front and lining are wrong sides together to one
    side and the exterior back and lining are wrong sides
    together to the other side with the zipper in the middle.
    Press well and pin in place.
  12. Lengthen the stitch. Edgestitch along the
    zipper teeth on either side on the zipper to hold the fabric
    layers together. As above, stop to move the zipper pull out
    of the way so you can maintain a straight seam along either

Complete the pouch and the lining, including
boxed corners

  1. Make sure the zipper is open half
  2. Fold the exterior pieces right sides
    together. Align the raw edges along both sides and across the
    bottom. Pin in place.
  3. Fold the lining pieces right sides together.
    Align the raw edges along both sides and across the bottom.
    Pin in place, leaving an approximate 3” opening along the
    bottom for turning.
  4. You again have one flat piece. This time the
    lining panels are to one side of the zipper and the exterior
    panels are to the other side of the zipper.

  5. Trim away any excess zipper tape at the top
    or bottom of the zipper so the edges of all the layers are
    flush all around.
  6. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch along the
    sides of the bottom of both the lining layers and the
    exterior layers.
  7. Remember to lock your seam at either side of
    the 3” opening at the bottom of the lining.

    NOTE: Do not stitch around the cut out
    corners — you are just stitching the sides and the
  8. Press open all the seam
  9. At each corner, pull apart the cut out
    square to align the side seam with the bottom
  10. For the very best look, take the time to
    really make sure your seams are aligned at each
  11. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch across
    each corner.
  12. For extra security at this stress point,
    consider double or triple stitching each

    As mentioned above, if you are brand new to making boxed
    take a look
    at our full tutorial
    on the
  13. Turn the bag right side out through the
    opening in the bottom of the lining.
  14. Hand stitch or edgestitch the opening in the
  15. Push the lining down inside the pouch. Align
    the boxed corners at the bottom and push out the top corners.
    A long, blunt tool works well for this, such as a knitting
    needle, chopstick or point turner.

Optional pom pom pull

  1. Thread a hand sewing needle with a double
    strand of embroidery floss and tie one end into a
  2. Sew one of the poms on this knotted
  3. Thread the opposite end through zipper pull.
    Tie it in a single knot around the zipper
  4. Thread the free end through the remaining
    pom and knot to secure.
  5. It looks best if the two poms are slightly
    off-set. Our strands finished at about 1” and 1½” but you can
    make how ever long you want.


Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Debbie Guild

Leave a Reply

%d bloggers like this: