The pencil. Do you think it has nightmares
about being chased by digital keyboards? There are so many
convenient electronic ways to jot a quick note, send a message,
or write down your innermost thoughts. But I still love my
pencils. And, recent
studies have shown the act of handwriting, instead
of typing on a keyboard, is actually better for your brain. It
activates a unique neural circuit, which makes learning easier.
So, if you needed an excuse other than “extreme cuteness” to
give our Triangle Pencil Case a try, you can now put it down as
a brain booster.
For this ScrapBusters project, we suggest
working with a canvas or home décor weight fabric. This works
great with the fusible fleece to create the triangle shape with
its wide boxed bottom corners. You could certainly try other
fabric options, but might need to experiment with additional
interfacing to insure the best results.
Look for a bright print in a smaller motif you
can center on each of the panels so your cases looks great from
all sides within the triangle format. You can then choose as
matching zipper as we did with our red case or go for a
coordinating accent color, as we did with the other two
samples. Little projects are fun fussy cutting
The zippered top opens to a full 9” – a
perfect size for your favorite pencils and pens. We used a
standard polyester zipper, which allowed us a broad range of
fun colors to mix and match with our chosen fabrics. Of course,
as much as we love those pencils, this zippered pouch would be
perfect for all kinds of little necessities.
We added a pair of matching poms as the zipper
pull on each of the pouches as a fun little bouncy accent. Look
for for either loose poms in your stash or cut from them a
scrap of trim. We did both, attaching the poms with a double
strand of Aurifil
label on the front of each pouch is the finishing
touch. These are from the new Dritz® collection of leather and
metal labels. We stitched them in place with the same AuriFloss
used to attach the poms so it it adds yet another pop of
There is a free pattern included below. It is
a simple 10” x 5½” rectangle so you can certainly choose to cut
all the pieces without it, however, the pattern is helpful for
precise fussing cutting as well as positioning the label and
marking for the base line.
Our Triangle Case finishes at approximately 9”
wide x 3” high x 3” deep.
NOTE: Ingredients shown are for ONE
Scrap or ¼ yard of 44″+ wide canvas or décor
weight fabric for the exterior panels
Scrap or ¼ yard of 44″+ wide quilting weight
cotton or similar for the lining
Scrap or ¼ yard of 45”+ fusible fleece;
we used Pellon Thermolam
Plus Fusible Fleece
TWO small poms – optional; as mentioned
above, you can use loose poms or cut individual poms from a
strip of trim
ONE Dritz® Label or similar – optional;
we used the new Dritz Metal
Labels in a matte nickel finish
- ONE 9” zipper
- All-purpose thread to match fabric
Embroidery floss in a color to match the
zipper and poms – optional; to attach the poms and sew the
label in place
- See-through ruler
- Fabric pen or pencil
- Seam gauge
- Seam ripper
- Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Iron and ironing board
- Straight pins
Download and print the Triangle Pencil Case
IMPORTANT: This pattern
download consists of ONE 8½” x 11″ sheets. You must print the
PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a
guide rule on the sheets to confirm your printout it to
Cut out the pattern along the solid
NOTE: As mentioned above, the cuts are all simple 10” wide
x 5½” high rectangles so you can choose to cut without the
pattern if you’d like.
Using the pattern, cut TWO from the exterior
fabric, the lining fabric, and the fusible fleece.
Clip to mark the base line at either outer
edge on all pieces.
For the best look, fussy
cut both exterior panels to center your motif
front and back.
Prepare exterior and attach label
Find the two exterior panels and the two
fusible fleece panels. Place a fleece panel against the wrong
side of each exterior panel. All four sides of both layers
should be flush. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse
the fleece in place.
Using the guidelines on the pattern, mark
the position for the label. If you are not using a pattern,
measure 1½” down from the top raw edge an 2” in from the
right raw edge to find the placement point for the upper
right corner of the label.
Hand stitch the label in place with a heavy
Our case is designed to have 3” corners. To
create this width, cut 1½” squares from each bottom corner of
each piece: the two exterior panels (with the fleece fused in
place) and the two lining panels.
With both the exterior and lining layers, we
stacked the layers and cut both at once for the best match
corner to corner.
If you are brand new to this technique, check out
our full step-by-step tutorial on two
different (and easy) ways to make a box corner.
Insert the zipper between the exterior and the
Place the front panel right side up on your
Center the zipper in place across the top
raw edge if the panel. The zipper and the panel are right
sides together and the zipper pull is situated to the right.
Pin in place across the top through all the
- Open the zipper half way.
Find one lining piece. Place the lining
panel right side down on top of the front panel, sandwiching
the open zipper between the layers. Pin in place – again just
across the top but through all the layers.
Stitch across the top through all three
layers, using a ¼” seam. We used our Janome Quarter Inch Seam
foot; you could also use a Zipper
All with all zipper insertions, when you feel you are
approaching the zipper pull, stop with your needle in the
down position. Raise the presser foot and twist the layers
slightly so you can access the pull to move it out of the way
of the presser foot. Once clear, drop the presser foot,
re-position the layers, and finish the seam.
Fold the lining back so the front panel and
the lining are now wrong sides together and the remaining
free side of the zipper tape is sticking up. Press.
Find the back exterior panel and the
remaining lining panel. Make a second sandwich similar to the
first one. Place the back exterior panel right sides together
with the front exterior panel, aligning its top raw edge with
the free edge of the zipper tape. Lightly pin in
Place the remaining lining panel right sides
together with the in-place lining panel. The top raw edge of
the lining panel should also be flush with the free edge of
the zipper tape. As with the first sandwich, you have
sandwiched the remaining free edge of the zipper between the
back exterior panel and the remaining lining panel. The two
exterior panels are right sides together and the two lining
panels are right sides together. Pin in place through all
Stitch in play through all the layers, again
using a ¼” seam and moving the zipper pull as described
As you did above, fold the exterior back and
lining wrong sides together and press.
Open up the entire unit so it lays flat. The
exterior front and lining are wrong sides together to one
side and the exterior back and lining are wrong sides
together to the other side with the zipper in the middle.
Press well and pin in place.
Lengthen the stitch. Edgestitch along the
zipper teeth on either side on the zipper to hold the fabric
layers together. As above, stop to move the zipper pull out
of the way so you can maintain a straight seam along either
Complete the pouch and the lining, including
Make sure the zipper is open half
Fold the exterior pieces right sides
together. Align the raw edges along both sides and across the
bottom. Pin in place.
Fold the lining pieces right sides together.
Align the raw edges along both sides and across the bottom.
Pin in place, leaving an approximate 3” opening along the
bottom for turning.
You again have one flat piece. This time the
lining panels are to one side of the zipper and the exterior
panels are to the other side of the zipper.
Trim away any excess zipper tape at the top
or bottom of the zipper so the edges of all the layers are
flush all around.
Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch along the
sides of the bottom of both the lining layers and the
Remember to lock your seam at either side of
the 3” opening at the bottom of the lining.
NOTE: Do not stitch around the cut out
corners — you are just stitching the sides and the
Press open all the seam
At each corner, pull apart the cut out
square to align the side seam with the bottom
For the very best look, take the time to
really make sure your seams are aligned at each
Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch across
For extra security at this stress point,
consider double or triple stitching each
As mentioned above, if you are brand new to making boxed
corners, take a look
at our full tutorial on the
Turn the bag right side out through the
opening in the bottom of the lining.
Hand stitch or edgestitch the opening in the
Push the lining down inside the pouch. Align
the boxed corners at the bottom and push out the top corners.
A long, blunt tool works well for this, such as a knitting
needle, chopstick or point turner.
Optional pom pom pull
Thread a hand sewing needle with a double
strand of embroidery floss and tie one end into a
Sew one of the poms on this knotted
Thread the opposite end through zipper pull.
Tie it in a single knot around the zipper
Thread the free end through the remaining
pom and knot to secure.
It looks best if the two poms are slightly
off-set. Our strands finished at about 1” and 1½” but you can
make how ever long you want.
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Debbie Guild